Hiking St. Olavsleden : Sul to Vuku 

We left Sul in early cool morning sunshine, ready to walk the 28km to Vuku.

The trail is very up and down now we are in Norway, with some steep ascents and descents.

Much of the morning was spent among trees with mountains in the near distance.

We stopped for a early snack at a stone table we found in the forest near a waterfall.

Soon after this we hit the asphalt again and began a long hike along a huge road lined with hundreds of trees, sitting high on either side.

This continued for what felt like forever. It was difficult to find places to pee and to stop for a proper lunch. We ended up sitting on the edge of a field among nettles, by the road in the afternoon.

During lunch, the sky clouded over and the day went from being very warm and sunny to heavy rain, in the time it took to eat a sandwich.

We walked in the rain and sang songs about rain or sun to keep cheerful, even though we were beginning to get soaked and clammy underneath the waterproofs.


The last few kilometres were tough, walking on asphalt for so long and feeling very uncomfortably wet and cold.

Eventually we arrived at Østnes camping in Vuku, owned by Liv and her family. I phoned her and she informed me that our cabin as the one with smoke coming out of it as she’s made us a fire. A welcome sight!

We were soon invited to Liv’s house for dinner where we enjoyed her stories bout the tea and living in Vuku. Østnes is a popular choice for salmon fisherman, as they are plentiful in the area.

She cooked us a traditional Norwegian dish called Sodd. Small meatballs made from a mixture of beef, reindeer, lamb and other meats, with boiled potatoes and carrots in a soup. A special dish served on special occasions such a weddings – we felt spoilt! It was warming and filling, exactly what was needed after a harsh day.


For dessert we had soft meringue with lingonberry and vanilla sauce, served with my favourite Scandinavian biscuit – havreflarn. A sweet, thin oat biscuit.

On the way back to the cabin, there was a magical fog in the valley. The weather is so changeable at the moment, with Autumn well and truly underway.

Tomorrow we head to Stiklestad – where the journey for the trail namesake Olav, ended.

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